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American rock climber (born 1985)

Alex Honnold
Alex Honnold in 2023 in Antarctica.jpg

Honnold in 2023
Personal information
Born (1985-08-17) August 17, 1985 (historic period 37) [ane]
Sacramento, California, U.S.
Education University of California, Berkeley
Occupation Rock climber
Spouse(s)

Sanni McCandless

​

(thou. 2020)​
Children 1[2]
Climbing career
Type of climber
  • Gratis solo
  • Large wall
Highest grade
  • Redpoint: 5.14d (9a)
  • Bouldering: V12 (8A+)
Known for Big wall gratuitous soloing

The first person to free solo El Capitan

Speed record holder on The Nose of El Capitan

Alexander Honnold (born August 17, 1985) is an American rock climber all-time known for his complimentary solo ascents of large walls. Honnold rose to prominence in June 2017 when he became the offset person to free solo El Capitan in Yosemite National Park,[three] a feat that sports writer Daniel Duane described as "i of the slap-up athletic feats of any kind, ever."[iv] [5] Honnold also holds the tape for the fastest ascent of the Yosemite triple crown, an eighteen-hr, l-minute link-up of Mount Watkins, The Olfactory organ, and the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome.[6] In 2015, he won a Piolet d'Or for the Fitz Traverse in Patagonia with Tommy Caldwell.

Honnold is the writer (with David Roberts) of the memoir Lone on the Wall (2015) and the bailiwick of the 2018 biographical documentary Free Solo, which won a BAFTA and an Academy Award.

Life and piece of work [edit]

Honnold was born in Sacramento, California, the son of community higher professor Dierdre Wolownick (b. 1953)[7] and Charles Honnold (1949–2004).[8] [ix] His paternal roots are German, and his maternal roots are Polish.[10] He started climbing in a climbing gym at the age of 5 and was climbing "many times a week" by age 10.[11] He participated in many national and international youth climbing championships as a teenager.

"I was never, like, a bad climber [as a kid], but I had never been a great climber, either," he says. "There were a lot of other climbers who were much, much stronger than me, who started equally kids and were, similar, instantly freakishly strong – like they just have a natural gift. And that was never me. I just loved climbing, and I've been climbing all the time e'er since, so I've naturally gotten better at it, but I've never been gifted."[12]

After graduating from Mira Loma High School as function of the International Baccalaureate Programme in 2003, he enrolled at the University of California, Berkeley, to study civil engineering science. His maternal gramps died, his parents divorced during his first year of college, and Honnold skipped many of his classes to boulder by himself at Indian Rock.

He dropped out of Berkeley and spent time living at home and driving around California to become climbing. "I'd wound up with my mom'southward old minivan, and that was my base," he said. "I'd use information technology to drive to Joshua Tree to climb or I'd bulldoze to LA to encounter my girlfriend. I destroyed that van fairly quickly; it died on me one day, and for the adjacent yr, I lived just on my bicycle and in a tent."[xiii]

In 2007, he bought a 2002 Ford Econoline E150 van, which immune him to focus on climbing and following the weather.[xiv] [fifteen]

According to a 2011 Alpinist profile:[xiv]

In the listen of the climbing world, Honnold emerged from the goo fully formed. In 2006 nobody had heard of him. In 2007 he free soloed Yosemite's Astroman and the Rostrum in a day, matching Peter Croft's legendary 1987 feat, and of a sudden Honnold was pretty well-known. A twelvemonth after, he free soloed the ane,200-foot (366m), five.12d finger crack that splits Zion'southward Moonlight Buttress. The ascent was reported on Apr 1. For days, people thought the news was a joke. Five months afterwards, Honnold took the unprecedented stride of gratuitous soloing the 2,000-foot (610m), glacially bulldozed Regular Northwest Face of One-half Dome. Croft called this climb the near impressive ropeless rising ever washed.

He gained mainstream recognition later on his 2008 solo of the Regular Northwest Confront of Half Dome was featured in the film Alone on the Wall [16] and a subsequent 60 minutes interview.[17]

In November 2011, Honnold and Hans Florine missed setting the record time on the Olfactory organ route on Yosemite's El Capitan by 45 seconds.[18] At the time the tape stood at 2:36:45, as set by Dean Potter & Sean Leary in November 2010.[19] On June 17, 2012, Honnold and Florine set a new record of 2:23:46 (or 2:23:51[20]) on that same route.[21] [22]

In Nov 2014, Clif Bar appear that they would no longer sponsor Honnold, along with Dean Potter, Steph Davis, Timmy O'Neill and Cedar Wright. "Nosotros concluded that these forms of the sport are pushing boundaries and taking the element of risk to a place where we equally a company are no longer willing to get," the company wrote in an open letter.[11] [23]

In 2016, he was subjected to functional magnetic resonance imaging scans that revealed that, unlike other high sensation seekers,[24] his amygdala barely activates when watching agonizing images. He however confesses feeling fear occasionally. Through imagination and do, he has desensitized himself to most fearful situations.[25]

On June 3, 2017, he made the first free solo ascent of El Capitan, completing the 2,900-foot (884m) Freerider route (5.12d VI) in 3 hours and 56 minutes.[26] The feat, described as "ane of the peachy athletic feats of whatsoever kind, always",[5] was documented by climber and photographer Jimmy Chin and documentary filmmaker E. Chai Vasarhelyi, as the subject of the documentary Free Solo.[27] Among other awards, the film won the Academy Award for Best Documentary Feature (2018).[28] [29]

On June 6, 2018, Honnold teamed upwardly with Tommy Caldwell to intermission the Nose on El Capitan speed record in Yosemite. They completed the approximately 3,000-foot (914m) route in 1:58:07, condign the beginning climbers to complete it in under two hours.[thirty]

In 2021, National Geographic signed Honnold for an original docuseries virtually his quest to climb across the peaks of Greenland.[31] Too in 2021, Honnold started a podcast about climbing.[32]

Personal life [edit]

Honnold lived in a van for over a decade. "I don't recall 'van life' is particularly appealing," he says. "It's not like I honey living in a car, merely I dear living in all these places. I honey being in Yosemite; I love existence basically wherever the weather is good; I love being able to follow good weather condition all over. And be relatively comfortable as I do it. And so that pretty much necessitates living in a car ... If I could, like, miraculously teleport a house from identify to identify, I'd prefer to live in a nice comfy house. Though, honestly, the van is kind of nice. I similar having everything within arm'due south attain. When I stay in a hotel room – similar, sometimes you become put upward in a really classy hotel room, and it's really big, and you accept to walk quite a ways to the bathroom, and you're similar, 'Man, I wish I had my [pee] bottle.' Who wants to walk all the ways to the bath in the middle of the nighttime when you could only lean over and grab your bottle and become?"[33] The van he lived in was custom-outfitted with a kitchenette and cabinets.[eleven]

In 2017, Honnold bought a habitation in the Las Vegas surface area. "I didn't accept any article of furniture at kickoff, so I lived in the van in the driveway for the first couple weeks. It felt more like home than an empty house did."[thirteen] Around the same time, he replaced the Ford Econoline van he had lived in since 2007 and put 200,000 miles on with a new 2016 Ram ProMaster, which he still lives and travels in for most of the yr.[33]

Honnold is a vegetarian, and he does non drinkable booze or utilize drugs.[12] Between climbs, he runs or hikes to maintain fitness.[one] He is an avid reader with interests in archetype literature, environmentalism, and economics, and he describes himself as an anti-religion atheist[34] [35] and a feminist.[36]

Honnold met Sanni McCandless at a book signing in 2015; they became a couple soon after.[37] Sanni and her human relationship with Honnold feature prominently in Free Solo. On December 25, 2019, Honnold announced, via social media, that he and McCandless were engaged. On September 13, 2020, Honnold announced via Instagram that he and McCandless had married.[38] Honnold's and McCandless daughter was built-in on February 17, 2022.[39]

Dierdre Wolownick, Alex Honnold's mother, started climbing at historic period 60 and is the oldest woman to climb El Capitan (first at the age of 66 and and so breaking her record, again at age 70).[40] [41]

Philanthropy [edit]

In 2012, Honnold began giving away one-third of his income to solar projects that increased energy access worldwide. Soon, this thought expanded to form the Honnold Foundation. The Honnold Foundation's mission is "promoting solar energy for a more equitable earth".[42]

Books [edit]

  • Lonely on the Wall: Alex Honnold and the Ultimate Limits of Gamble. London: Pan, 2015. Co-authored with David Roberts. ISBN 978-1447282730.

Filmography [edit]

While Honnold is best known for his starring office in the Oscar-winning documentary Free Solo, he has also appeared in several other films.[43] [44] [45]

  • The Sharp Stop (2007)[46]
  • Alone on the Wall (2008)[47]
  • Progression (2009)[48]
  • Honnold 3.0 (2012)
  • Valley Insurgence (2014)[49]
  • A Line Across the Sky (2015)
  • Showdown at Horseshoe Hell (2015)
  • Africa Fusion (2016)[l]
  • Queen Maud Land (2018)
  • Gratis Solo (2018)
  • The Olfactory organ Speed Tape (reel rock 14) (2019)
  • Fine Lines (2019) [51]
  • Duncanville (2020) (Television receiver)
  • The Alpinist (2021)
  • Explorer: The Last Tepui (2022)
  • Edge of the Unknown with Jimmy Chin (2022)[52]

Awards [edit]

  • 2010: Golden Piton laurels from Climbing magazine, for endurance climbing[53] [13]
  • 2015: Honnold, together with Tommy Caldwell was awarded the Piolets d'Or, for the beginning total traverse of the Fitz Roy Range in Patagonia, Argentina.
  • 2018: Robert and Miriam Underhill Award from American Alpine Society, for excellence in various fields of climbing[54]
  • 2018: Special mention of Piolets d'Or for his outstanding contribution to climbing during 2017[55]

Selected climbs [edit]

Big walls [edit]

  • 2007, Freerider (VI 5.13a, 37 pitches), Yosemite, California – One twenty-four hours free ascent with Brian Kimball[56]
  • 2007, Astroman (v.11c, 10 pitches) and The Rostrum (five.11c, 8 pitches), Yosemite, California – 2nd person after Peter Croft (1987) to free solo both in a twenty-four hour period[57]
  • 2007, Salathe Wall (Half dozen 5.13b/c), Yosemite, California – Eleventh complimentary ascent[56]
  • 2008, Bushido (5.13+) and Hong Kong Phooey (five.13b–five.14), Utah[58]
  • 2008, Moonlight Buttress (V 5.12d, 1200 ft), Zion, Utah – Offset Gratuitous solo[59]
  • 2008, The Regular Northwest Face of One-half Dome, Yosemite, California – First free solo[60]
  • 2012, The Nose (Six 5.eight A2), Yosemite, California, El Capitan, – Former speed record of 2:23:46 with Hans Florine[21] [22]
  • 2012, The Regular Northwest Face up of Half Dome, Yosemite, California – Speed solo in 1:22[61]
  • 2012, Yosemite Triple Crown – Mt. Watkins, El Capitan, and Half Dome, Yosemite, California – Solo in eighteen:l[61]
  • 2014, Muir Wall – Shaft Variation (V 5.13b/c) – Speed record of 12 hours[62]
  • 2014, El Corazon (V 5.13b) – Speed record of 15:xxx[63]
  • 2014, El Sendero Luminoso (V v.12d, 1,750 ft, 15 pitch), El Potrero Chico, Mexico – Commencement gratuitous solo rise, ~ 3 hours[64]
  • 2014, Academy Wall (5.12a C2, 8 pitch), Squamish, British Columbia, Canada – Offset gratuitous solo[65] [66]
  • 2016, Complete Scream (E8 6b), Northern Ireland, United Kingdom – Free solo[67] [68] [69]
  • 2017, Freerider (5.13a Half dozen), Yosemite, California, El Capitan, – Start Free solo[70] [71]
  • 2018, The Olfactory organ (VI 5.viii A2),[30] Yosemite, California, El Capitan, – Speed record of one:58:07 with Tommy Caldwell[72] [73]
  • 2019, El Niño (VI 5.13c), Yosemite, California, El Capitan, – 2d entirely complimentary ascent via Pineapple Express variation with Brad Gobright[ citation needed ]
  • 2019, Passage to Liberty (VI 5.13d), Yosemite, California, El Capitan, – First gratis ascent with Tommy Caldwell[ commendation needed ]

Bouldering [edit]

  • 2011, The Mandala 8A+ (V12), Bishop, California[74]
  • 2010, Ambrosia 8A (V11), Bishop, California – second rising[75]
  • 2012, Too Big to Flail 7C+ (V10) or 8b (5.13d), Bishop, California – start ascent[76]

Unmarried pitch [edit]

  • 2008, Parthian Shot, New Statesman, Meshuga (solo), flash of Gaia (afterward repeated it solo), London Wall, on-sight solo[77]
  • 2010, The Green Mile 8c+(5.14c), Jailhouse crag, San Francisco[78]
  • 2010, Rainbow Arch (5.12+, summit-roped), Ennedi Desert, Chad – First ascent[79] [80]
  • 2011, Heaven (5.12d) and Cosmic Debris (5.13b), Yosemite National Park – Complimentary solo[81]
  • 2011, The Phoenix (5.13a), Yosemite National Park – Free solo. The Phoenix was the first v.13a of the United States.[82]
  • 2011, Cobra Crack (5.14b), Squamish, British Columbia ascent is etched in a lath between that of Will Stanhope and Pete Whittaker[83]
  • 2019, Arrested Development 9a (five.14d) Mount Charleston, Nevada, 2nd ascent after Jonathan Siegrist.[84]

Mountain [edit]

  • 2009, Unnamed (VI 5.12 A2) Low's Gully, Kalimantan – Attempted first free rising[85] [86] [87]
  • 2014, The Fitz Roy Traverse (5.11d C1 65 degrees, 5000m), Fitz Roy massif, Patagonia – Completed over five days with Tommy Caldwell[88] [89]
  • 2016, Torre Traverse, Patagonia – 2d ascent. A due north-to-south traverse of Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger, and Cerro Torre. Completed in under 21 hours with Colin Haley.[90]

See besides [edit]

  • History of rock climbing
  • Listing of showtime ascents (sport climbing)

References [edit]

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Further reading [edit]

  • Bethea, Charles (September 7, 2018). "Dispatch: Alex Honnold Climbs Halfway Upwardly a New Bailiwick of jersey Skyscraper". The New Yorker . Retrieved Oct 14, 2018.
  • Dean, Josh. "His Life in His Hands". Men'southward Journal . Retrieved Oct 14, 2018.
  • Duane, Daniel (March 11, 2015). "The Center-Stopping Climbs of Alex Honnold". The New York Times Magazine . Retrieved October xiv, 2018.
  • Lowther, Alex (Summer 2001). "Less and Less Alone: Alex Honnold". Alpinist . Retrieved October fourteen, 2018.

External links [edit]

  • Official website
  • Worrall, Simon (January 3, 2016). "Alex Honnold Isn't Fearless—He But Accepts Death". National Geographic.
  • Alex Honnold 3.0 on YouTube (video)

Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alex_Honnold

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